🔗 Share this article

An Expert Colorist

Hair Color Expert based in California who specialises in silver hair. Among his clientele are Jane Fonda and renowned personalities.

Which budget-friendly product is a must-have?

I highly recommend a microfibre towel, or even a smooth cotton shirt to towel-dry your locks. It's often overlooked how much harm a regular bath towel can do, especially to lightened or dyed strands. This minor adjustment can really lessen brittleness and splitting. Another inexpensive must-have is a large-gap comb, to use during washing. It safeguards your strands while removing knots and helps keep the health of the strands, notably following coloring.

What item or service justifies the extra cost?

A professional-grade heat styling tool – featuring innovative technology, with precise heat settings. Grey and blonde hair can become discolored or suffer heat stress without the right iron.

Which popular practice is a definite no-go?

Self-applied color lifting. Social media makes it look easy, but the reality is it’s one of the most hazardous actions you can do to your hair. I’ve seen people severely damage their locks, experience breakage or end up with uneven tones that are nearly impossible to correct. I would also avoid chemical straightening processes on pre-lightened strands. These formulations are often too aggressive for weakened hair and can cause lasting harm or undesired tones.

What’s the most common mistake you see in your salon?

Clients selecting inappropriate items for their particular strand characteristics. Certain clients overapply violet-based cleansers until their blonde or grey strands looks lifeless and muted. Others rely too much on strengthening conditioners and end up with rigid, fragile strands. A further common mistake is thermal styling minus a barrier. In cases where you employ styling appliances without a defensive spray or cream, – especially on pre-lightened hair – you’re going to see yellowing, dryness and breakage.

Which solutions help with shedding?

Hair loss needs a multilayered approach. Topically, minoxidil is still one of the most effective treatments. My advice includes follicle treatments containing stimulants to stimulate circulation and promote root strength. Incorporating a clarifying shampoo regularly helps eliminate impurities and allows treatments to work more effectively. Internal support including clinical supplements have also shown great results. They enhance overall health for hair benefits by correcting endocrine issues, tension and dietary insufficiencies.

For people looking for something more advanced, blood-derived therapies – where a concentration from your blood is administered – can be effective. That said, I always suggest seeing a dermatologist or trichologist first. Hair loss is often tied to underlying health issues, and it’s important to get to the root cause rather than pursuing temporary solutions.

---

Anabel Kingsley

Scalp and Hair Scientist and brand president of Philip Kingsley clinics and product ranges for hair loss.

How frequently do you schedule salon visits?

I schedule cuts every ten to twelve weeks, but will snip damaged ends myself fortnightly to maintain tip integrity, and have lightening sessions every eight weeks.

Which low-cost item is a game-changer?

Toppik hair fibres are truly impressive if you have areas of scalp visibility. They attach using static to your strands, and it comes in a range of colors, making it almost invisible. I personally applied it after childbirth when I had significant shedding – and also presently during some considerable hair loss after having awful flu a few months ago. As hair isn’t an essential tissue, it’s the initial area to show decline when your nutrition is inadequate, so I would also recommend a healthy, varied eating plan.

What justifies a higher investment?

For those with genetic thinning in women, I’d say doctor-recommended solutions. Regarding increased shedding, or telogen effluvium, buying an over-the-counter product is fine, but for FPHL you really do need prescription-strength formulas to see the optimal outcomes. In my opinion, minoxidil compounded with other hair-supportive actives – such as endocrine regulators, blockers and/or soothing agents – works best.

Which hair trend or treatment would you never recommend?

Rosemary oil for hair loss. It shows no real benefit. This belief comes from a minor study from 2015 that compared the effects of a low-dose minoxidil with rosemary oil. A mild formula such as 2% is inadequate to do much for male pattern hair loss, so the study is basically saying they work as little as each other.

Likewise, mega-doses of biotin. Rarely do people lack biotin, so using it may not benefit your strands, and it can skew thyroid readings in blood tests.

What’s the most common mistake you see?

I think the term “hair washing” should be changed to “scalp cleansing” – because the main goal of cleansing is to clear away sebum, debris, sweat and pollutants. Many individuals refrain from cleansing as they think it’s harmful to their strands, when in fact the reverse is correct – particularly with flaky scalp, which is intensified by sebum accumulation. When sebum remains on the skin, they deteriorate and lead to inflammation.

Regrettably, follicular health and strand desires can differ, so it’s a balancing act. However, if you cleanse softly and treat damp strands kindly, it shouldn't harm your hair.

Which product, treatment or supplement would you recommend for hair loss?

For genetic thinning in women, start with minoxidil. It has the most robust evidence behind it and tends to work best when compounded with other hair-supportive actives. If you're interested in complementary therapies, or you simply don’t want to or can’t use it, you could try microneedling (see a dermatologist), and perhaps injections or laser devices.

With telogen effluvium, investigation is key. Noticeable thinning usually relates to a health trigger. Sometimes, the cause is transient – such as sickness, virus or emotional strain – and it will improve spontaneously. In other cases, thyroid imbalances or vitamin/mineral deficiencies are the driving factor – the typical deficiencies involve iron, B12 and vitamin D – and to {treat the hair loss you need to treat the cause|address shedding, target the underlying issue|combat thinning, focus