The City of Bristol's Backyard Vineyards: Grape-Treading Grapes in Urban Spaces
Every 20 minutes or so, an older diesel-powered railway carriage pulls into a graffiti-covered stop. Nearby, a law enforcement alarm cuts through the near-constant road noise. Commuters rush by falling apart, ivy-draped garden fences as rain clouds form.
It is maybe the last place you expect to find a well-established vineyard. However one local grower has cultivated 40 mature vines sagging with plump purplish berries on a rambling garden plot situated between a line of 1930s houses and a local rail line just above the city town centre.
"I've noticed people concealing heroin or other items in those bushes," states the grower. "But you simply continue ... and keep tending to your vines."
The cameraman, 46, a documentary cameraman who runs a fermented beverage company, is among several urban winemaker. He has organized a loose collective of growers who make vintage from several hidden urban vineyards tucked away in back gardens and community plots across the city. It is too clandestine to have an official name so far, but the collective's WhatsApp group is named Grape Expectations.
City Vineyards Around the Globe
So far, Bayliss-Smith's allotment is the sole location listed in the Urban Vineyards Association's forthcoming global directory, which includes better-known urban wineries such as the 1,800 plants on the hillsides of the French capital's historic artistic district area and over 3,000 grapevines overlooking and inside the Italian city. Based in Italy non-profit association is at the forefront of a movement reviving city vineyards in traditional winemaking nations, but has discovered them throughout the globe, including urban centers in Japan, Bangladesh and Uzbekistan.
"Vineyards assist urban areas remain more eco-friendly and ecologically varied. These spaces preserve land from development by establishing long-term, yielding agricultural units within urban environments," explains the organization's leader.
Similar to other vintages, those created in cities are a product of the earth the vines thrive in, the unpredictability of the climate and the individuals who tend the grapes. "Each vintage embodies the charm, community, landscape and heritage of a urban center," adds the president.
Unknown Polish Grapes
Returning to the city, Bayliss-Smith is in a urgent timeline to gather the vines he grew from a cutting abandoned in his garden by a Eastern European household. Should the rain arrives, then the pigeons may take advantage to feast once more. "This is the mystery Polish grape," he comments, as he cleans bruised and rotten grapes from the shimmering bunches. "The variety remains uncertain their exact classification, but they're definitely hardy. In contrast to noble varieties – Burgundy grapes, Chardonnay and other famous French grapes – you need not treat them with chemicals ... this is possibly a special variety that was developed by the Soviets."
Collective Efforts Across Bristol
The other members of the group are also taking advantage of bright periods between bursts of autumn rain. On the terrace overlooking the city's shimmering harbour, where medieval merchant vessels once bobbed with barrels of vintage from Europe and the Iberian peninsula, Katy Grant is collecting her rondo grapes from about 50 vines. "I love the aroma of the grapevines. It is so evocative," she remarks, stopping with a basket of fruit resting on her shoulder. "It recalls the fragrance of southern France when you roll down the car windows on holiday."
The humanitarian worker, fifty-two, who has devoted more than two decades working for charitable groups in war-torn regions, inadvertently inherited the grape garden when she returned to the United Kingdom from East Africa with her family in recent years. She experienced an overwhelming duty to maintain the vines in the garden of their new home. "This plot has previously endured three different owners," she says. "I really like the idea of natural stewardship – of passing this on to future caretakers so they keep cultivating from the soil."
Sloping Gardens and Traditional Winemaking
A short walk away, the remaining cultivators of the collective are busily laboring on the steep inclines of the local river valley. Jo Scofield has cultivated more than one hundred fifty plants perched on ledges in her expansive property, which descends towards the muddy River Avon. "Visitors frequently express amazement," she notes, indicating the tangled grape garden. "They can't believe they are viewing grapevine lines in a city street."
Today, Scofield, 60, is picking clusters of dusty purple Rondo grapes from rows of vines arranged along the hillside with the assistance of her daughter, Luca. Scofield, a wildlife and conservation film-maker who has contributed to Netflix's nature programming and BBC Two's Gardeners' World, was inspired to plant grapes after seeing her neighbor's grapevines. She has learned that amateurs can make intriguing, pleasurable traditional vintage, which can command prices of upwards of seven pounds a glass in the increasing quantity of establishments focusing on low-processing vintages. "It is deeply rewarding that you can truly create quality, traditional vintage," she states. "It's very on trend, but really it's resurrecting an old way of producing wine."
"When I tread the fruit, all the natural microorganisms are released from the skins into the liquid," says the winemaker, partially submerged in a bucket of small branches, seeds and crimson juice. "This represents how vintages were historically produced, but industrial wineries introduce sulphur [dioxide] to eliminate the wild yeast and then add a commercially produced culture."
Challenging Conditions and Creative Approaches
In the immediate vicinity active senior another cultivator, who motivated his neighbor to plant her grapevines, has assembled his friends to pick Chardonnay grapes from the 100 vines he has arranged precisely across multiple levels. Reeve, a Lancashire-born physical education instructor who worked at the local university cultivated an interest in viticulture on regular visits to France. However it is a difficult task to cultivate this particular variety in the humidity of the valley, with cooling tides moving through from the Bristol Channel. "I aimed to make Burgundian wines here, which is somewhat ambitious," says the retiree with a smile. "This variety is late to ripen and particularly vulnerable to mildew."
"My goal was creating European-style vintages here, which is rather ambitious"
The temperamental Bristol climate is not the only problem encountered by grape cultivators. Reeve has been compelled to install a fence on